Dr. Sam swapped her old sulfate blend for something gentler — and loyalists are losing it. Some say it’s a watery mess now. Others swear it’s the same bottle.
The real issue? The new formula *feels* different on skin — less slip, more squeak. That’s not necessarily bad, but it changes how you use it.
📋 **What Actually Changed**
It’s still a £28 gel cleanser (150ml). Dr. Sam claimed the new surfactant system would be “kinder to barrier function” without sacrificing clean. I called bullshit — until I tried it.
1. **Coco-Glucoside base** — A plant-derived surfactant. Milder than the old sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, but less foamy.
2. **Niacinamide 2%** — New addition. Supposed to calm redness. Honestly? It’s too low to do much.
3. **No essential oils** — Still fragrance-free. That’s the one thing they didn’t mess up.
🧴 **What’s Inside (and What’s Not)**
The old formula relied on a strong anionic surfactant. New one leans on glucosides + a touch of betaine. Hero ingredients: glycerin (humectant), niacinamide (barely there), allantoin (soothing). The old version had more slip from cocamidopropyl betaine — now it’s almost stripped.
– Glycerin: Prevents that tight feeling — mostly works
– Niacinamide: Anti-inflammatory, but at 2% it’s more of a whisper
– Allantoin: Calms irritation — the real MVP here
– No sulfates: Good for sensitive skin, bad for makeup removal
⚖️ **Gel to Water**
First pump? It’s thinner. Almost runny. Feels like water slipping through fingers — annoying. Lather is low (don’t expect foam). Rinse-off is fast, but my face felt… clean. Suspiciously clean.
Week 3: My barrier didn’t freak out (yay). But I had to double-cleanse more — this doesn’t budge SPF alone. Surprising win? No stinging around my nose. Old formula sometimes burned.
💡 *One Thing:* Use on *damp* skin. Dry face + this cleanser = instant friction. Wet it first, then pump.
🗣️ **Who This Works For**
Measurable change: Less redness around my chin. But my oil production? Same. No magic there.
✅ *Buy if*: You have reactive skin that hates sulfates but still wants a gel texture
⏭️ *Skip if*: You wear heavy makeup or waterproof SPF daily — you’ll need a balm first
💰 *Worth it?*: For £28, you get a solid daily cleanser. Not groundbreaking. Not a ripoff.
💡 **Final Take**
Better for sensitive skin. Worse for lazy people who want one-step cleansing. I’d repurchase — but only if my barrier’s throwing a tantrum.
⭐ 7.2/10 — Gentle but needs backup
🛍️ *Where to Buy:* Cult Beauty or Dr. Sam’s site. Grab the travel size (£12) first — trust me.