Dieux Skin just swapped the star ingredient in their Insomnia Serum — and I don’t hate it, but I also don’t blindly love it yet.
They ditched the bakuchiol for a retinoid alternative called “retinol peptide” — which sounds like marketing speak until you actually see the INCI. It’s clever, but it changes the whole vibe of this bottle.
It’s a $42 hydrating, barrier-supporting serum that claims to plump and smooth overnight without irritation. The big sell? It’s meant to be gentle enough for retinol-haters.
Retinol Peptide Complex
A synthetic peptide that mimics retinol without the purge — or the results, depending on your skin.
5% Niacinamide
Brightens without that greasy film some niacinamides leave behind.
Polyglutamic Acid
Holds 4x more moisture than hyaluronic acid — and it actually stays on your skin instead of evaporating.
Photo: Christian Agbede / Unsplash
The new formula leans into barrier repair over active aggression. It’s less “glow now” and more “fix your face first.”
- Retinol Peptide: Mimics retinol signaling without the peeling
- Niacinamide: Calms redness and tightens pores
- Polyglutamic Acid: Locks in hydration all night
- Squalane: Lightweight oil that doesn’t clog
It’s a milky gel that sinks in within 15 seconds — no tacky residue, no pilling under moisturizer. First pump felt thin, almost watery, but my skin drank it like a dry sponge.
Week two: my forehead texture smoothed out, but my cheeks felt tighter than with the old formula. Not dry — just… less cushioned. That surprised me.
Fine lines around my eyes looked softer. Pores? Same size, less filled-in. No breakouts — but no dramatic glow either.
The new Insomnia is gentler, more hydrating, and less dramatic. I miss the old version’s oomph, but my barrier doesn’t.