Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinoid Serum: New Formula Worse?

Reformulation Alert
The cult-favorite retinoid oil just got a major ingredient swap—and early users are furious.
Expert Analysis · Honest Reviews · Real Results
1.e1They Changed The Oil

So Pestle & Mortar quietly swapped the formula on their cult Superstar Retinoid Night Oil and the reviews are… spicy. Like, “I’m returning this” spicy.

The old one smelled like a fancy spa. The new one smells like a vitamin aisle sneezed into the bottle. That’s not the real problem though — it’s the texture.

2.e2What You’re Actually Buying

$68 for 30ml. The brand calls it a “superstar” — I call it a retinoid hybrid that’s supposed to smooth lines without peeling your face off.

1

Bakuchiol swap

They swapped retinol for bakuchiol. That’s a plant-based alternative — gentler, yes, but also slower.

2

Dry oil base

It’s a dry oil. No greasy shine, absorbs in about 12 seconds flat.

3

Glass dropper

Comes with a glass dropper that feels nice but picks up less product than you think.

white and brown plastic bottle on white textile

Photo: Harper Sunday / Unsplash

3.e3What’s Inside Now

Old formula ran on retinol. New formula runs on bakuchiol + a peptide complex. Gentler on paper — less punchy on skin. Here’s the new lineup:

  • Bakuchiol: plant-based retinol alternative, less irritation but slower results
  • Peptide complex: supports collagen, but takes weeks to show
  • Squalane: lightweight hydration, no breakouts
  • Vitamin E: antioxidant buffer, helps with the smell (kind of)
Cosmetic serums arranged on clear, circular plates.

Photo: ibnu ihza / Unsplash

4.e4Feels Different Now

Texture is thinner — almost watery. It sinks in fast, no film. First night I thought “ok, fine.” By night three I missed the old velvet feel.

Week two: skin looked fine. No glow. No drama. That’s the problem — it’s boring now. The old one gave you that “I did something” tingle.

💡

One Thing: Use 4 drops on damp skin — dry skin drinks it up too fast and you lose spread. Trust me.
circular white Onne on brown figure

Photo: ONNE Beauty / Unsplash

5.e5Did It Actually Work?

Fine lines on my forehead? Same. Texture around my nose? Slightly smoother, but nothing crazy. No purging — but no “wow” either.

Buy if
You have sensitive skin and want a gentle nightly oil that won’t freak out
⏭️

Skip if
You actually want visible retinol-level results in under a month
💰

Worth it?
$68 is fair for the ingredients, not fair for the results you’ll get
6.e6Final Call

The new formula isn’t *bad* — it’s just forgettable. If you loved the old one, you’ll be disappointed. If you’re new, you won’t know what you’re missing.

5.8/10
Gentle but forgettable reformulation
🛍️

Where to Buy: Direct from Pestle & Mortar — but grab the travel size first. Don’t commit to the full bottle until you try it.