They finally changed the formula. The OG P50 1970 smelled like a pickle factory exploded in a vinegar bath — and we loved it for that. The new version? Cleaner. Less assault. But does it still burn the right way? Spoiler: yes, but differently.
The real reason this matters? They swapped out the phenol (a controversial antiseptic) for something gentler. That changes the tingle. Not the glow.
**🔬 What You’re Actually Buying**
It’s still an exfoliating toner. $85 for 8.4 oz. The claim that made me roll my eyes: “retexturizing and illuminating.” Every toner says that. But this one actually delivers — if your skin can handle it.
– **Acid blend** — Lactic, citric, malic, and a touch of salicylic. This isn’t a one-acid wonder.
– **Vinegar base** — Still there. But the smell is dialed back 30%. Thank god.
– **No phenol** — The 1970 version had it. New one uses niacinamide instead. Less burn, more barrier support.
**⚠️ The Ingredient Tea**
It’s still aggressive. Just smarter. The hero ingredients are the same acids, but the phenol removal means you get less immediate sting and more cumulative glow. The niacinamide addition? Actually smart — it calms the inflammation the acids cause.
– **Lactic Acid:** Gentle surface exfoliation + hydration
– **Salicylic Acid:** Pore-clearing, not pore-clogging
– **Niacinamide:** Barrier repair + redness reduction
– **Sulfur:** Antibacterial — keeps breakouts in check
**📦 First Splash: Oh, That’s Different**
Texture is still watery — almost like slightly oily water. Absorbs in 15 seconds. The first time I used it, I braced for the familiar sting. It was… milder. Honestly disappointing at first. But by day 3, my skin had that same glassy look. Just without the chemical warfare.
Week 2 surprise: fewer red patches. The niacinamide is actually doing something my old bottle never did.
💡 **One Thing** — Apply on completely *dry* skin after cleansing. Damp skin amplifies the sting. Trust me.
**🆚 Old vs. New: The Real Talk**
Measurable change? My pores look the same — still there, just less shouty. What changed: less redness, more even tone. What stayed: the glow. It’s still there. Just arrives without the tears.
✅ **Buy if** — You have oily or combo skin that’s *already* retinoid-tolerant. This is not beginner territory.
⏭️ **Skip if** — You have active eczema, rosacea, or hate anything that tingles.
💰 **Worth it?** — Yes, if you finish a bottle every 4-6 months. The glow is real, just quieter now.
**💡 Final Call**
The reformulation is better for most people. Less irritating, same results. But if you’re a masochist who loved the phenol burn? You’ll miss it. I do. My skin doesn’t.
**8.2/10** — The glow, without the war crime
🛍️ **Where to Buy** — Biologique Recherche direct, or Rescue Spa. Get the travel size first — don’t commit to 8.4 oz until you’re sure.