Read the back of the box, not the front. The front screams “100% natural” in that cute botanical font — the back has a lab report that reads like a chemistry textbook.
They sneak in *bisabolol* — which is technically derived from chamomile, sure, but usually synthesized in a lab for stability. It’s the same trick food brands use with “natural flavors.”
$68 for 30ml of phyto-retinol serum. The claim that got me: “Retinol results without the irritation.” Bold. Especially since there’s zero actual retinol in here.
Bakuchiol 1%
The plant-based retinol alternative — actually solid, clinically backed for fine lines
Swertia Japonica Extract
Fancy name for a seaweed that calms redness — but it’s the 4th ingredient, so barely there
Squalane Base
Good moisturizer, but it’s doing the heavy lifting for that “glow” they advertise
Photo: Poko Skincare / Unsplash
Here’s where it gets sneaky. The hero ingredients are legit — bakuchiol is genuinely great — but the “natural” label is doing a lot of heavy lifting. The preservative system uses *sodium benzoate*, which is synthetic, and the fragrance is a proprietary blend they won’t disclose.
- Bakuchiol: Smooths lines without retinol burn
- Squalane: Hydrates fast, sinks in 30 seconds
- Sodium Benzoate: Synthetic preservative — fine, but not ‘natural’
- Fragrance: Undisclosed mix — my sensitive nose caught it immediately
Photo: Clearcut Derby / Unsplash
It’s a thin milky gel — feels like water but leaves a slight tacky film for about 90 seconds. Not bad, but don’t layer makeup on top immediately or it pills.
Week two: my forehead lines looked softer. But my cheeks broke out in tiny clogged pores — the squalane is *rich*. I had to dial back to every other night.
Photo: Ali Pazani / Unsplash
Fine lines: visibly reduced by week 3. Pores: slightly more clogged. The glow everyone raves about? That’s literally just the squalane sitting on top — wash it off and it’s gone.
Photo: Rosa Rafael / Unsplash
It’s a good serum — not a great one, and definitely not “100% natural.” The greenwashing is annoying enough that I almost want to dock points. But the bakuchiol works.