So Dermalogica swapped the OG rice enzyme in their cult-fave powder for a papaya-derived one. And honestly? My face was confused for a week.
The old formula was a gentle sandstorm—this new one feels more like a whisper with a bite. That tiny shift in pH balance? It changes how your skin reacts under makeup.
It’s still a rice powder you mix with water—$64 for 2.6 oz. The claim: brightens without stripping. I bought it because my old bottle ran out and I panicked.
Papaya Enzyme Swap
No more rice bran—now it’s papain, which dissolves dead cells faster but can tingle if you’re sensitive.
Niacinamide Boost
They doubled the vitamin B3. Less redness, but also less of that “scrub until you glow” feedback.
Salicylic Acid Trace
Tiny amount—0.5%—just enough to unclog pores without making you peel.
Photo: Kaeme / Unsplash
Hero move: colloidal oatmeal is still here—soothes any angry spots. But the new enzyme is more aggressive on surface skin, less on texture. You’ll feel the difference on day 3—not day 1.
- Papain (papaya enzyme): Dissolves dead cells faster—good for dull, bad for broken skin
- Colloidal oatmeal: Calms irritation—saves you from over-exfoliation regret
- Salicylic acid: Dives into pores—keeps blackheads at bay
- Niacinamide: Brightens without bleaching—works best under sunscreen
Photo: engin akyurt / Unsplash
Pours out like baby powder, feels like wet silk—then dissolves into nothing. No grit. First use: “Is this doing anything?” Second use: “Oh, it’s doing something.”
Week two: my forehead stopped producing its own oil slick. Unexpected win—the new formula dried out my usual shine zone without flaking my dry cheeks.
Photo: El S / Unsplash
Texture got smoother—those tiny bumps around my jaw? Gone. But my glow took 10 days to show up, not 3. The old formula was instant; this one’s a slow burn.
Photo: yunona uritsky / Unsplash
Better for acne-prone skin, worse for sensitive types who just want a gentle dusting. The old one was a comfort blanket—this is a wake-up call.