I used my last box of the old formula last week. Opened a new one today — and immediately knew something was off.
The pads used to feel wet and juicy. Now they’re almost dry to the touch. That’s not a packaging tweak. That’s a whole new recipe.
It’s a two-step at-home peel in single-use packets. $19 for 5 pairs, $88 for 30. The claim was always “professional-grade results without the burn.” The old version delivered.
Two-Step System
Step 1 exfoliates, Step 2 neutralizes — you wait 2 minutes between.
Daily or Weekly Use
They said daily. Most people did 3-4x a week.
Universal Claim
“For all skin types” — which was actually true with the old one.
Photo: Elsa Olofsson / Unsplash
The old formula used a blend of glycolic, salicylic, lactic, and malic acids. The new one swapped in gluconolactone and bumped up the lactic acid. Feels gentler on application — but also less effective.
- Glycolic Acid: The heavy lifter for texture — seems dialed down now
- Lactic Acid: Increased, but it’s hydrating not exfoliating at this level
- Salicylic Acid: Still here, but feels buried
- Gluconolactone: A PHA. Gentle, but not strong enough for real turnover
Photo: Poko Skincare / Unsplash
The step 1 pad is barely damp. I pressed it hard to get any liquid out. No sting. No tingle. It feels like I wiped my face with a slightly acidic Kleenex.
Week 2: my pores look the same. The old formula gave me visible tightening by day 4. Now I’m just… moisturizing more. What surprised me? The step 2 pad is actually wetter than step 1 now. That’s backwards.
Photo: engin akyurt / Unsplash
After 3 weeks: my texture is okay. Not better. The glow I used to get is missing. Blackheads are still here. The old version cleared them in 10 days.
Photo: ibnu ihza / Unsplash
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare made a classic mistake: they dumbed it down for mass appeal. This isn’t a reformulation — it’s a completely different product wearing the same name. I’m switching.