Tatcha just threw out squalane for a new ferment in their Water Cream. Cue the internet meltdown.
The old formula was a $70 moisturizer that felt like nothing. The new one actually feels like something — and that’s the whole drama.
It’s still $72 for 1.7 oz. Still a gel-cream. But the texture went from “disappears instantly” to “sits on skin for 12 seconds before melting.”
New Ferment Core
HADARISIS — a rice-based ferment that replaced squalane. Claims to hold 2x more moisture.
Same Japanese Wild Rose
Still in there. Still tightens pores like a gentle fist.
No More Silicone Slick
Old version felt like primer. This one feels like actual skincare.
Photo: Element5 Digital / Unsplash
They swapped the hero. Squalane (smooth, boring, effective) is out. HADARISIS ferment (complex, living, unpredictable) is in. Also: more niacinamide than before, less fragrance punch.
- HADARISIS Ferment: Holds moisture longer than squalane — but feels stickier at first
- Niacinamide: Pores look smaller by day 3, not week 3
- Japanese Wild Rose: Tightens without drying — rare
- Japanese Leopard Lily: Calms redness in 2-3 applications
Photo: Laura Chouette / Unsplash
First pump: “Oh no, this is thick.” Then it breaks — water-burst style. But it takes 10 seconds to absorb, not 3 like the old one. That 7-second difference matters when you’re rushing.
Week 2: My T-zone stopped looking like a grease slick by noon. Unexpected win. But if you hate the feeling of product on your skin — you’ll hate this.
Photo: Alexandru Zdrobău / Unsplash
Pores shrunk by maybe 30%. Hydration lasted 6 hours instead of 4. But my cheeks felt tight by hour 5 — so dry-skinned friends, layer a serum under this.
The reformulation made it better for people who want results, worse for people who want vibes. I’m in the results camp — this is a real upgrade, not a cash grab.