I’ve been through three bottles of the old formula—the one with the milky texture and the smell that reminded me of a fancy salad bar. So when Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare announced a swap, I rolled my eyes so hard I saw my brain.
They ditched the retinyl palmitate for actual retinol and cranked the ferulic acid up to 2%. That sounds like a nerdy spreadsheet change, but it means this thing hits harder than it used to—and it definitely let me know about it on day one.
It’s $92 for 1 oz. The claim is “next-level glow without the irritation,” which is marketing speak for “we added the good stuff but kept the hand-holding.”
Retinol Switch
Gone is the gentle ester—this uses pure retinol, which actually binds to your skin’s receptors instead of just hanging out.
Ferulic Boost
At 2%, this antioxidant is now the star, not a sidekick—it stabilizes the retinol and makes it work in daylight hours too.
Pump vs. Dropper
They moved to an airless pump. Boring, but it means the retinol doesn’t oxidize into uselessness by week three.
Photo: Amanda Wolbert / Unsplash
The first ingredient after water is the ferulic. That’s rare—most brands bury it at the bottom. It’s paired with something they call “retinol booster,” which is just a fancy way of saying they added bisabolol to calm the purge.
- Retinol (0.3%): The real deal—unclogs pores and speeds up cell turnover
- Ferulic Acid (2%): A plant antioxidant that doubles the sun protection of your SPF
- Bisabolol: Chamomile extract that tells your skin to chill out
- Vitamin E: The oily sidekick that keeps the retinol from evaporating
Photo: Harper Sunday / Unsplash
It’s a thin, slightly tacky serum that disappears in about 15 seconds. No grease, no film—just a faint citrusy scent that fades fast.
Week two, my chin broke out in tiny whiteheads. That’s the retinol pushing out decades of gunk. I almost quit, but by week three, they flattened out and left zero scars. Also—unexpected—my forehead lines looked less like a crinkled receipt.
Photo: Rosa Rafael / Unsplash
My pores on my nose are visibly smaller—not gone, but smaller. The texture on my cheeks is smoother. My dark spots are still there, but they’ve faded about 30% in three weeks. That’s decent for a drugstore-price-point serum wearing a luxury coat.
Photo: Poko Skincare / Unsplash
The reformulation is objectively better—stronger, more stable, and the pump actually saves product. But it’s not for beginners. If you’ve already done the retinol dance, this is your upgrade.